Koyudo Kolinsky Five-Sided Brush Review: A Rare Balance of Hair Quality and Precision Design
Share
A Brush That Took Time to Happen
Some brushes are designed.
Others… take a bit more persistence.
This mid-sized five-sided kolinsky brush was one of those projects that stayed in development longer than expected. The idea itself came from the community — many users had been asking for a more versatile, mid-sized version of the original five-sided shape.
But the real challenge was never the shape.
It was the hair.
Convincing Yoshiki, one of the key artisans behind the project, to part with his private kolinsky stock required more than a simple request. It took time, patience, and — admittedly — a fair amount of persistence.
That is how this brush came to life.
Not All Kolinsky Feels the Same
If you have used kolinsky brushes across different periods, you may already know this:
They do not all behave the same.
Vintage kolinsky, often found in older brushes from decades past, tends to have a distinct character — a subtle grip, followed by a controlled, even release of product. It holds pigment just long enough before laying it down smoothly.
Modern kolinsky, on the other hand, is often cleaner, lighter, and more uniform. While still high quality, it can feel more “slippery,” relying more on technique to achieve the same level of control.
This brush sits somewhere in between.
It does not feel overly airy, nor aggressively grabby.
Instead, it offers a composed balance — a controlled pickup and release that feels increasingly uncommon today.
A Closer Look at Hair Selection
Part of this behavior likely comes from the background of the brushmaker.
With roots in traditional calligraphy brush making, the selection standard for hair is particularly strict. Priority is given to what is known as inochi hair — strands with clear, refined tips that reflect light, along with strong tip cohesion.
The result is a brush head that feels substantial without being heavy.
The hairs are layered and dense at the core, yet maintain a smooth surface and controlled movement. This allows the brush to guide product rather than simply move it.
Comparing Across Generations
To better understand its position, this brush was compared with multiple kolinsky brushes across different eras:
- Vintage kolinsky (40–60 years old): rich, controlled, cohesive
- Early 2020s batches: slightly closer to vintage behavior, but cleaner
- Recent batches: lighter, more modern, more technique-dependent
What stands out about this five-sided brush is not that it tries to replicate vintage hair —
but that it carries a similar sense of control while remaining usable in a modern context.
It is subtle.
Not dramatic.
But in use, it performs with quiet consistency.
The Five-Sided Design Advantage
Beyond the hair, the defining feature of this brush is its five-sided shape.
Traditional round brushes primarily rely on the tip for application. In contrast, the five-sided structure creates multiple flat surfaces that interact with the skin.
This leads to:
- More stable contact
- More even distribution
- Greater control over placement
- Thinner, more refined layers
Rather than sweeping product across the skin, the brush allows you to press, guide, and diffuse with precision.
Performance on Skin
In practice, the brush excels at:
- Building thin, seamless layers of foundation
- Blending cream blush and bronzer with control
- Diffusing powder without overloading
- Refining edges and transitions
It is particularly suited for those who prefer controlled application over speed, and refinement over density.
A Quietly Distinct Brush
What makes this brush stand out is not a single exaggerated feature.
It is the alignment between hair quality and structural design.
Nothing feels overdone.
Yet everything feels intentional.
Final Thoughts
Kolinsky hair like this is becoming less common, especially when combined with thoughtful design and careful selection.
This brush does not aim to replicate the past —
but it carries a certain familiarity for those who have experienced it.
Not something you see often.
If you know, you know.